Pakistan Mountain News had very interesting conversation with veteran mountain climber Denis Urubko. Today he arrived in Islamabad and despite the fatigue and other engagements; he did not hesitate to talk to us and explained the scenario about Polish K2 winter Expedition. Pakistan Mountain News is equally thankful to Mr. Asghar Ali Porik of Jasmine Tours for his facilitation and last but not the least Imran Shigri of Jasmine Tours.
Pakistan Mountain News: How was your overall experience regarding K2 winter expedition, as the team was quite confident to make first ever summit of K2 in winters?
Urubko: Yes, I was 100% sure that this time we will get the goal, before the departure from the Poland, the project was enormous; there were so many famous names and some of my friends Adame Bielecki and Marcin Kaczkan. At the beginning it was good but then things tuned into negative side. Normally in difficult situations people do joint efforts but unfortunately we were doing it separately without team work and passion so I decided to go on solo for summit push, reached at an altitude of 7600 meters and survived in a miracle way . Now forecast is very good but the team is not working. Several problems and complexities blocked our passion to win the game.
Pakistan Mountain News: In your blogs and write-ups you expressed your concerns about the slowness of the operations at K2 walls and route for the summit, what went wrong?
Urubko: In one article I expressed my some reservations as there were some options and in my opinion those were strange. As being inside in tents with full of snow and some people prefer sitting in base camp in good weather condition and trying to act on mountain. There were a few critics and in my humble opinion I tried to do it positively to get the goal but once I saw no reaction then I wrote in my blog but that was written in positive manner. The expedition was organized well as base camp standards but unfortunately we were not joint and looking into different directions and I faced a lot of criticism.
Pakistan Mountain News: What are your future plans for K2?
Urubko: Thank you very much for this nice question, on my way from base camp I was accompanied by Pakistani climber Amin Ullah who shared very beautiful stories about Hunza valley, Rakaposhi and the people. He showed me some nice pictures on my way back to Skardu; it is my desire to visit again and to see beautiful landscape. Famous mountaineer Nazir Sabir just told me that Rakaposhi has not been summited since last 20 years. For me it will be an interesting goal to visit that paradise, where everyone you meet is a mountaineer. Hussain from Askloe told me very interesting stories about Askole and Braldu valley, relationships of people from different villages and their way of communication. My wife is also a mountaineer she also wants to visit Pakistan again and together we will make some technical mountaineering projects especially for the unclimbed ones in winters, I would like to do it again for Broad Peak and K2 in winters.